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Smoke & Salt

For the ultimate young Brixton experience, look no further than chefs Remi Williams and Aaron Webster’s Smoke & Salt.

The Pop Brixton space is ideal for an early evening dinner al fresco, avoiding the larger crowds and with enough time to enjoy their delicious cocktail menu. I went for the simply divine elderflower bellini – if negronis are your thing, be advised that Smoke & Salt’s come strong and bitter.

To keep it simple and still delicious, don’t be afraid to opt for the set menu. Williams and Webster come from the school of seasonal cooking, so you are guaranteed to have super fresh ingredients and a constantly changing palette of options. Each small plate is a sample of their genius.

Highlights were without doubt the tomatoes and smoked ricotta, which come with a sprinkling of whey and toasted buckwheat, and the grilled chorizo with aubergine and some burned lemon mostarda. The sweetness of the plum tomatoes reaches umami perfection with the rich, salty ricotta. As for the chorizo, it crumbled in the mouth with such flavour and spice you’d expect to suddenly find you’d been transported to Seville.

Leave some room for dessert. The tahini yoghurt and a sesame waffle with strawberries is the sort of thing a posh kid craving an Eton mess would concoct during his Gap Yah in Lebanon. And while at first I wasn’t sure it really worked, there was quite soon nothing left to share with my dining companion.

You can also expect some stellar service, with waiting staff ready to explain to you the concept behind each dish, and Williams working his charm on spellbound patrons.

Proving once more the culinary power of Lambeth, Smoke & Salt is the sort of place I wouldn’t be too surprised to see featured on Chef’s Table some time soon.

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