A feast of Kricket
by Joshua Neicho
41-43 Atlantic Road
Brixton SW9 8JL
Tel: 0207 3826 409
Inventive Indian tapas place Kricket launched in a shipping container in Pop Brixton in 2015, before transferring to a permanent site in Soho last year. Now chefs Will Bowlby and Rik Campbell have returned to Brixton, with a 40-cover restaurant in two railway arches in Atlantic Road. They are treating it as their experimental lab with a rapidly changing menu.
There’s a fine-looking bar in the first arch. The dining room is in the second, with diddy marble-topped tables arrayed around a large communal one. Cocktails are an important feature, a compact menu of classics and Kricket creations.
It’s all small dishes, and the smallest ones work best – a scrumptious Bhel Puri with raw mango, tamarind and lovely yoghurt; a fresh bowl of heirloom tomatoes, piquant with spring onion and ginger; moreish samphire pakora like fried zucchini. Oh my word this is delicious, said my companion. I liked lamb breast feuille de brick, a crisp and fat deep-fried tandoori experience, more than he did. The asparagus with king oyster mushroom and peas was disappointingly a single stem, though made up for by the intriguing creamy malai sauce. The fried Keralan chicken is tasty but not finger lickin’ fabulous, and a bit overwhelming next to the more abstemious dishes. At £45 a head for nine tapas plates and drinks, the bill was nothing to complain about – a smidgeon lower and Kricket would be an irresistible lunch or pre-show pit stop.